Starting up Jodicus Direct (without the peg) E7 6cI was a bit bleary-eyed this morning heading out to meet Richard and Steve for an attack on Wave Buttress after yesterday’s good session at Steall. Yesterday, my ankle managed 90 minutes on steep tensiony climbing before tightening up. Today I was keen to get it moving on a sustained slab and work it a little bit harder.Wave Buttress had an obvious challenge. In the early nineties Mark Mcgowan crimped his way up the honeycombed wall of Jodicus Direct. But with a pre-placed long sling enabling a peg to be clipped right before the crux, it was a bit of a weird proposition and never got popular. A few years ago the peg was removed but the climb was never re-led. An obvious challenge then to make a clean ascent ‘sans fer’, this time running it out on the 6c crux above an RP3.I gave it a quick clean and play on the moves to wake myself up and then worried whether it was a good idea as I still in pain walking in tussocky grass at the base of the cliff. What the hell - suck it up. 

I was glad I did. A fine E7 6c. Afterwards all I could do was shuffle off for two dinners and a bath. But who cares.

Richard on Crackattack E3 6a

Steve On The Beach E5 6a

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

So, many things have gone down and been put up at Mt Evans' "Wolverine land", I must admit I've sort of lost count. After a respectable amount of 8B's and 8B+'s, it's now got its first 8C, Warrior up. Daniel Woods made the FA, and Dave Graham swiftly made the 2nd ascent. Dave: "Is proud Wolverineland goes big time today with it's first 8c boulder established in the MIX! Very good effort daniel! Now its time for the next batch of sick shit to get syked on and SEND!!!KAY BUENO" It should...

Kind of a slow news week wouldn't you say? Here's something to keep you till something happens though: This summer, Nalle Hukkataival went road-tripping in Norway, visiting exotic and exciting places like Vingsand, Harbak and the Lofoten islands. The weather didn't play along all the time, but on the other hand it was possible to climb all day and night, as the sun never sets in northern Norway in the summer. This video of Nalle making the FA of Rough gem, 8B, was shot at 2.30 AM.

Sprayway supported Lakes fest features free walks, mountain biking talks and Stuart Maconie too.

This Friday's video is of American hero Alex Honnold deep water soloing in Mallorca.

"There's naked women everywhere!"

Award-winning jackets, interesting mountain packs and wild colours coming next spring.

All the weather info you need to plan your outdoors weekend.

Our favourite outdoor survival expert shows you how to bed down in the wilderness...

The MCofS has a pair of tickets to give away in this easy to enter competition

New hiking boots and light hikers from the US hybrid footwear specialist.

Cram launches New Kielder Run-Bike-Run event as part of Kielder Marathon weekend.

Experience the Gower's limestone sea cliffs at the second BMC Gower Climbing Festival this month.

Gripping one hour documentary about the Eiger Nordwand available for viewing or download.

Rob Adie is the BMC Climbing Walls and Competitions Officer and he is going live on the UKC Forums tomorrow! That's Friday the third of September.

"I provide advice about climbing wall related issues and am responsible for organising all the BMC's climbing competitions..."

On September 18th myself and Tim Emmett will be at the opening day of the new Big Rock climbing centre in Milton Keynes. We’ll be running masterclasses in climbing during the day (my classes start at 10.30am). You’ll have to give the centre a ring (quickly!) to book these. In the evening, starting 7.30 we’ll be both be hosting an evening’s climbing entertainment talking about our respective backgrounds in climbing, BASE jumping and then telling you our stories from The Great Climb. It should be a fun day - see y’all there!Big Rock’s site is here. And their facebook is here.

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

The trauma of Saturday’s efforts has put my ankle injury back a bit, so it’s no climbing for me for another wee while to give the wound a chance to knit again. Unfortunately, I think it could get in the way of finishing my big trad projects of the summer. But never say die…Who cares? At least I got through Saturday. I didn’t really tell anyone, but the whole of last week passed in a preoccupied state of worry that I wouldn’t be able to climb on the day. On the Wednesday morning I got out of bed and it was too painful to put on the ground for the first half hour. I guess the responsible thing to do would have been to say “I’m injured, so I’m out”. But I was remembering Paul Pritchard’s story about his and Johnny Dawes first ascent of The Scoop on Sron Uladail in 1988. As they faced failure to get past the capping roofs Pritchard said “In this sort of situation Dawes could be counted upon to throw caution to the wind and just be downright irresponsible”. Thanks for the inspiration guys!

Johnny Dawes about to take a rope snapping winger on the Scoop first ascent 1988. Pic: Paul Pritchard (via Mark Mcgowan's flickr)For now it’s back to reality, an avalanche of work needing done, my bathroom won’t plaster itself and my book won’t finish itself. Here we go...

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

Epic 400km race across Cumbria in words and pictures.

Better product information along with some neat new features for this winter.

This week - how to fit a pack and tweak it to work for you.

No compromise performance by Nick Brown