Club Blog

Russ Salisbury (l) and Julian Hearne (r) By ex-hut custodian Julian Hearne The following account of my time as the hut custodian for The Manse Barn in Onich is not meant to be an exhaustive account of its history, but rather just a semi-coherent account of funny anecdotes with some facts thrown in to anchor it in reality. Better men than me - and it was all men in the 1970s – could tell you
The club has begun to compile an online archive of our photos from the past. You can view these in the link below.  If anyone has photos that they would like to add, or comments/memories/names on ones that you see please get in touch via our email at the bottom of the screen.   LMC Online Photo Archive Link 
Pete Ogden's memories of the first ascent of Spacewalk at Aonach Dubh, currently E5 6b. It was 1978 and Ken Johnstone was amongst the best climbers in Scotland but also definitely the slowest. The descents in darkness off the crags were legendary and it was essential to pack a headtorch along with sufficient food and drink for the gruelling experience of hanging off belays for hours. Fortunately, we had climbed together for years and I
Our archive of LMC Journals include fascinating reports of mountaineering life during the Second World War as well as lino cut cover prints by member Sam Drysdale. View journals here.        
Salvaged from the old website:   7/18/2004  Reiff part IIILast visit,  left of Pinnacle area: SomethingBlue (Hard Severe 4c) where I was unable to pull over the top which makes it a 4c.  Didn’t affect my confidence, just backed up that I am not yet technical enough to make 4c moves. Sonia tried Juniors’ Groove (vdiff *) but I think her confidence had taken a beating the day before, and she was fed up doing corners, which most of
Salvaged from our website circa 2006 from Doug - now Professor of Glacial stuff and a bit more at St. Andrews and University of the Arctic, Svalbard (UNIS). Peter Scott – an Appreciation - By Doug Benn I joined the Lomond Club in 1973, when I was sixteen, along with three older friends who worked at Weir’s engineering firm, near my home in the south side of Glasgow. These three – Alan Anderson, Willie Johnstone
Report by Alie, As the rest of the UK wandered blindly into the epicentre of a global pandemic, Michael, Steve, Jack, Alie, Colin, Dorota and Cat all loaded their cars and set off up the road for the long drive to the Scottish west coast for a weekend at Ronnan Cottage in the wonderful highlands, untroubled by closing borders and terrifying statistics. Little did we know it would be the last opportunity to get away
  I was looking forward to this meet which is surely the pinnacle event in any climber's calendar.  Thanks to the herculean efforts of our meets administrator Steven, the club had managed to book out the whole CIC hut in February but the forecast was turning very grim with high winds and a storm forecast.  People even began pulling out and I lamented that it was almost 2 years since I had been on a
Lagangarbh Burns Supper Meet Report by Michael This was the 3rd Annual Burns Supper Meet and was by all means over attended with 23 members taking the short hop up the A82 to Glencoe and the wonderfully situated Lagangarbh Hut. Cameron and I were on security duties on the drive up with Lorna , protecting the cargo of "live " Haggis for the Supper. There was plan for some of the wealthier members to meet
The meet held just north of Glencoe was a well-attended affair with a full Alex MacIntyre Memorial hut. The events began with the usual endeavour of trying not ending up in a room with Danny, to make sure you got a quiet night’s sleep. Soon enough the usual evening’s entertainment of meeting new members, sharing stories and planning for the weekend where well underway. The Saturday comprised of one group doing the Ring of Steall
By Jules Go with the Flo For all those naysayers who thought the Lake District Tranearth Conniston meet would be a complete washout, I’d like to say “get it up ye”. It was a great weekend with only a wee bit of rain in the mornings that meant a nice long lie-in on both mornings in a hut that would better be described as a mansionette – it was huge. I arrived late on the
By Cameron The meet at Braedownie offered LMC members the last chance to get out in the pishing rain before it turned cold, and as a consequence - we had an excellent turn out. Lorna drove myself, Stewart and Cat, and kept us all on the edge of our seats playing the petrol game and exiting motorways like Colin Macrae. Once we arrived at Braedownie mansion we were introduced to a large number of unfamiliar
By Marco Back when I was doing this mountaineering stuff alot the CIC hut was a mysterious place to me. I had been brought up on the rougher side of climbing, the wild bivi under some boulder or tenting on the side of a high ridge. Well times move on and here was the opportunity to spend a couple of nights in this revered place, the Charles Ingles Clark hut. This was my second club
 
The Black Rock cottage with Stob Dearg towering behind has been the centre piece of many breath taking photos and lines of poetic mastery. The Lomonder's managed neither of these for their April meet report, so this must be an achievement of sorts!    
By Michael, 2015, The Eiger, what can say about this mountain that hasn't already been said? When I was 21 my friend Jed gave me a VHS video of a French climber Christoph Profit called A Winter Trilogy . It features Christoph solo climbing the north face's of the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grand Jorasses. This was 1987 so long before HD and Uli Steck, but I loved to watch this video and often dreamed of
The LMC meet at Mill Cottage might be the last winter meet of the year. The winter had not been great so far, but the weather report suddenly turned in winter’s favour and the club members scrambled to be added to the list. I headed up on Friday night with Steven  - we exchanged ambitions for the weekend; a climb at Sneachda on the Saturday and perhaps a munro on the Sunday.  We arrived at
Hut: Lagangabh Hut, Glencoe Weather: Scottish   We had a lot of new faces along on this meet. Friday was the traditional event of drinking whisky, and checking weather reports every hour or so in the vain hope that something might improve. With nothing looking promising many of us decided that we’d scoot up Curved ridge in the morning. Those that didn’t fancy the scramble decided to walk up Buachaille Etive Beag instead. The worst
By Michael, This years Burns Supper meet was held at the very upmarket Kintail Outdoor Centre. It was attended by 16 Lomondeers and despite the atrocious weather was an absolute blast.A few of us met at the dearest chippie in Scotland on the way up, I think some of them even enjoyed the food!! On leaving the chippie Cameron joked about Lorna getting a puncture before getting to Kintail, unfortunately that comment backfired and poor
In 1989 club members Gordon Longmuir and Graham McGill made an attempt on the Eiger North Face. A presentation by Gordon was given at the 75th anniversary dinner based on photos and field notes. This content has been added to the website.   Gordon and Graham on Die Eigernordwand - Eiger North Wall Notes 1989 To the Swallows Nest (start of 1st ice field) and back Friday 4/8/89   One month to the day before my 48th
LMC Glen Affric Meet Report Dates: 30/11/18 – 02/12/18 Attended by: Lorna Ferrier, Holly Duncan, Michael McAnenay, Stewart Gibson, Julian Hearne, Tim Hough, Rob Sim and Cameron Watts. A great turn out and successful Meet to a really remote hut – Strawberry Cottage in the beautiful Glen Affric. Tim thankfully had his land rover and so was able to ferry people and bags down the track to the hut saving tired legs after a long
By Rob. On the 5th and 6th of October 2018, the club met in The Grampian Club’s Inbhirfhaolain Hut in Glen Etive. After arriving on Friday night and catching up over tea and beers, we made our plans for the Saturday. Anna Lisa, Marshall and Maysam walked Ben Starav. Myself, Danny, Stewart and Cameron headed to Rannoch Wall on Buachaille Etive Mor. Lorna also joined us for part of the walk in on her way
By Harry, Me & Paul , met Danny, Richard & Rob in Etive. Because of a mid/day start (9.30) we ended up behind two parties; we met the two girls at the first short wall which was wet and they decided to rope-up. I went up first followed by paul who ended back in a pool of water, so the rope came out and the girls leap frogged us. A chossy loose traverse then took
Mid-summer solstice meets don't get much better than this.  Arran was bathed in sunshine with just enough breeze to keep the dreaded  midges at bay.    Unusually the midges were the least of our worries. Instead we had to put up with alcohol fuelled Hawick neds and a young Glaswegian ned couple who got so drunk that the guy fell onto his tent in the wee small hours of Saturday morning . . . but
By Lorna, In comparison to the boys hike the night before Julie and I went up the night after, on the actual summer solstice!!! (those boys were just that bit premature and over eager 😉 It was a beautiful walk in and great catch up as I don’t think either of us drew breath 😊 I know shocking isn’t it! bet you are all surprised as we are both such quiet wee things😊 We scrambled
In the traditions of the club, a gang of Lomonders headed out on the Solstice to the Cobbler.  Armed with extreme optimism, the group planned to tackle the Recess Route and hoped that the weather would hold out despite forecasts and logic dictating otherwise.  The walk in to the Narnain Boulder proved to be dry but, once under shelter, the sky turned and the group were pummelled with hail.  The climbing was canned and a
The club has enjoyed a great start to the cragging season, with a long dry spell providing great days and evenings out for the club.  So far we have been out to Auchinstarry, Neilson and Loudoun hill on our Wednesday evening cragging sessions and members have also been venturing out to Glen Etive and other places. You can even see this drone footage of us at Neilston Quarry.      
This year's winter CIC meet was a first visit for a number of newer LMC members.  The hut and the surrounding amphitheater of rock and ice can be a beguiling place but always packed with adventure.  Two such members, Flo and Tom, set out on a long winter day out on the CMD Arete and Flo created a great written piece on their day out and weekend at the hut: As Lomond Mountaineering Group monthly
By Rob, The Cabin Balgowan is a climbers hut located in the hamlet of Balgowan about a 1.5 miles east of Laggan. The hut is located about a 2 minute walk from a roadside car park, sleeps 10 and is normally provided with mains electricity and running water. On the evening of 18th of May 2018, I journeyed up to this hut in the Cairngorms for the weekend. After spending half an hour driving round
LMC headed to Kalymnos for its Sun Rock sport climbing trip in April. There, the team met up with some Scottish Ladies Mountaineering Club members, and Harry managed to trick Eva into thinking it was a beach holiday, but actually she was there to belay him the whole trip.     Kalymnos as ever had fantastic bolting and naming of routes making it very easy to navigate. Areas climbed included Je t'aime, Noufaro, Summertime, Telendos Miltiadis,
Brilliant meet at the CIC hut. Many routes in good condition while blue skies also making an appearance. The club teams tackled many classic routes such as Comb Gulley, Italian Climb, CMD Arete amongst others.  You can read about Tom and Flo's big day out on the CMD Arete here. Top memorable moments from the CIC Meet: Wading in loose powder snow in Gardyloo Gulley for 3 hours getting nowhere, while watching others have a
By Michael Fuselage Gully II ** Day 1 if the Ling Hut meet, me, Lorna, Jules, Flo and Tom made the long walk in to Coire Mhic Fhearchair and the magnificent Tripple Buttresses. They did Fuselage Gully which was great fun , fantastic day. Day 2 of the Ling Hut Meet, for me it was a bit of Corbett Bagging. I climbed Beinn Bhan via the North Gully of A Chioch II *** and the
 
By Stewart This year’s Xmas meet promised great winter climbing in the Cairngorms as the snow had been falling for some weeks previous. The Ladies Scottish Climbing Club Milehouse hut was the perfect place for our meet: a roaring fire, great surroundings and a massive kitchen to cope with the enormous meal that Lorna had planned for us. We rose early on Saturday morning and teams were already planning their day ahead: Danny and Helen
An eventful weekend with a good little group.
LING HUT MEET REPORT By Micheal: The weekend of the 11th and 12th of August saw myself, Harry, Danny, Jules, Stuart, Lorna and Lisa make the long but worthwhile drive to Torridon for the August meet at the iconic Ling Hut. After a wet but short little walk in we got the fire going and hatched some plans for the following day with our tipple of choice. The Ling Hut is a fantastic hut, a
By Lisa Seems fitting to write this report tonight under my duvet when this time last week we were slogging up the path in the rain and pitch black to reach the CIC hut. I travelled up with Lorna, Michael and Susan but because Michael took so long doing his hair we left late and didn't arrive at the north face car park until 9.30pm. The long walk up was worth it, we were met
By Simmo Day#0: 20 September depart Bristol - London - Paris – Lourdes: Train – Walk – Train – Tube – Train (I knew the script from last year). Rained on getting off the train in Lourdes… the only time that I felt the rain all week. Day#1: Cauterets to Refuge Wallon Sunday as per last year: take the bus to Cauterets with it’s terrific stock up market. This year though I head out and
By Billy Great weekend at the Cairngorm Meet, lots of teams out climbing in the spindrift on saturday and a good windy walk around the Cairngorm on sunday. Everyone was well behaved ( ? ) and made the best of the weather and conditions. Im sure everyone has a story to tell but my memories are of freezing belays,dropped mitts,good banter,too much whisky,blue skyes,great company and having to pish on a frozen HMS before leaving
By Peter Matt,rich and myself (Pedro) went for a day up to glencoe,the plan was the gorms or west,we decided the Coe and go for dorsal arête,grade 2.big rich picked me up at 7.10 with Matt in lovely Dumbarton and we hammered up west along the beautiful Loch Lomond on a fairly calm clearish day with me getting a little travel sick (we cars :@) Matt swapped seats with me.forecast in the area was heavy
By Simmo Day 0: Train: South Wales - London - Paris - Lourdes via Eurostar and the TGV (something like 10 hours travelling time). Day 1: Pont d'Espagne to Refuge Oulettes de Gaube. Took cheap bus from Lourdes to Cauterets, and teamed up with an Aussie couple to share a taxi up to Pont d'Espagne. Put the waterproofs on for the trek up in the cloud, but after half an hour we were out and
By Florian Last Sunday Alika and I sallied forth on an adventurous expedition to Cerro de Punta, highest peak of Puerto Rico. The proud king of the Cordillera Central wears a crown of rusty antennas, adornded with gems of razor wire and mighty signs that read “danger, high voltage, keep out”. As a mountain Cerro de Punta is not to be underestimated, since the road that leads to the top is very technical and full
By Helen Moore July saw the Alps in stupends glorious weather, snowy peaks bathed in sunshine, still deep deep snow remaining from the long and hard winter, and a beautiful adundance of meadow / upland glen flowers...... The first week in Chamonix, with 2 3,500mtr snow and rock peaks for aclimatizing: 'petit aiguilles vert' & 'table couloir on aiguelle du tour' (AD-), with a fab rock ridge and a 15 mtrs knife edge snow ridge!
By Richard A good trip to an excellent venue last weekend. There were overnight frosts and some cold winds but on Saturday we climbed in warm sun at Kyloe. Fabulous fish suppers in Wooler, and the pub turned out to be decent on Saturday night. There were no crowds, polished rock, or massed tourists : We saw only seven or eight climbers at Kyloe, and I wouldn't have imagined Bowden was busy the next day,
By Kevin Mont Thabor is situated in SE France near the Italian border the area is liberally supplied with huts well away from commercial ski developments and with moderate altitudes up to 3000m it makes an ideal early season ski touring area. Our tour took started from Valfrejus over the Col Fontaine Froid to the Magi hut then over a couple of cols with a steep ski down over recent avalanche debris to the very
By Ivonne The CIC hut meet saw Aaron, Michael, Florian, Luca and myself travelling and walking up on Friday evening. Only five other climbers stayed in the hut and they were as determined as us to give the winter another chance – and probably the last one for this season 😉 Guided by the recent blogs we chose climbs for the next day and pulled straws – sorry forks!!! – for the two teams. Early